How To Change Clutch Fluid!!!

what you'll need

•    Wrench for the bleeder screw (often 8mm, but check your owners manual)
•    2 Bottles of brake fluid (check your owners manual for recommendations, but generally        you'll want either DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluid)
•    Container for old fluid (an old milk jug or detergent bottle works fine)
•    A short (approximately a foot long) length of 1/4 " (internal dimensions) clear plastic              tubing to fit over the bleeder valve
•    A friend to pump the clutch pedal and monitor fluid level

If your clutch has been feeling a little “spongy,” like it doesn't want to full engage or disengage, a cheap and easy way to remedy the problem can be to change the hydraulic clutch fluid. Since the fluid used in clutch systems is just common brake fluid, it will slowly absorb moisture from the air, and eventually function less efficiently.

Luckily, It's a process that won't take more than an hour or so, and you don't need any expensive equipment—just a few tools and materials you'll find at any auto parts store, and a friend!

Step 1 – Locate Bleeder Valve and Attach tubing

Check your owner's manual to find the location of the bleeder valve on your clutch system. It's often located near the bottom of the clutch slave cylinder, on or near a hydraulic line leading to the cylinder. Once you've located the valve, fit the clear plastic tubing around the valve, and run it into the container you've brought.

Step 2 – Check the Fluid Level

Check the level of fluid in the reserve reservoir. Again, check your manual for its exact location, but it is often near the rear of the engine compartment, on the driver's side. Add fluid to the full level if necessary. It is very important that the reservoir never empty completely during the fluid flush/replacement process, as this will allow air into the hydraulic system, severely limiting its effectiveness.

Step 3 – Pump and Depress the Clutch

Have your friend pump the clutch pedal gently a couple of times, and then press the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it. It is imperative that the pedal stay on the floor until the next step is completed.

Step 4 – Open and Close the Bleeder Valve

Slowly turn the bleeder screw until you see fluid moving down the tubing you've attached to the bleeder valve. Leave it open until you see the flow slow, then close it fully again. Do not over tighten, as you will have to loosen it again, but make sure it is full closed, as failing to do so can allow air into the system.

Step 5 – Release the Clutch Pedal and Check/Add Fluid

Once you've re-closed the bleeder valve, have your friend release the clutch pedal (it may not rise on its own, your friend may have to pull it up with his toe or his hand—this is normal). After doing so, your friend should check the fluid level in the reservoir, and add fluid if it has drained more than halfway (when in doubt, add fluid).

Repeat Steps 2-5 Until the Fluid Coming Through the Tube is Clean

Watch the color and consistency of the fluid coming out of the bleeder valve. The old fluid will have a noticeable brownish tint, and may have debris in it. When the fluid coming out of the valve through your plastic tube becomes very clear, you can stop. If the fluid is clear, but you're still seeing small debris in it, keep flushing—this is why 2 bottles of fluid is recommended, it's best to try to flush as much gunk out as possible. A bottle of brake fluid is much cheaper than a new master or slave cylinder!

At this point, close the bleeder screw as tight as you can without over tightening (you don't want any leaks, but you must avoid stripping the screw or the fitting). Remove the tubing, and dispose of the old brake fluid in the appropriate manner (most auto parts stores have safe disposal services for used automotive fluids). Wipe down the bleeder valve area with a dry rag.

Check the fluid level one last time, adding fluid to fill if necessary. Place a piece of cardboard underneath the bleeder valve, and test the clutch by gently pumping it a few times with the engine running. If there's no fluid on the cardboard, take the car out for a test, making sure the clutch is functioning normally. Check the fluid one last time after the test, and you're all set—you've just replaced your clutch fluid!